I promised the hostel worker in la Boquita that I would tell everyone how wonderful the place is. So, here is my attempt at a review thanks to too much down time on the beach. :)
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It was a last minute decision. I had never heard of the place, but after an online map search, I saw the name, and for some reason it stuck with me. I did some research, figured out how to get there, and here I am.
I found a hostel (completely empty besides two surfers) for $15 a night (but then when they found out I was cool they changed it to $10) that has incredibly clean, comfortable, safe rooms, a huge bathroom, a kitchen, and a porch with hammocks overlooking the ocean.
"Olas Escondidas" is owned by a guy who lives in the states, but it is run by an amazing, incredibly sweet young couple that lives here with their four year old son. The hostel is right as you come into town and there is no sign, but everyone knows where it is.
The town is such an interesting place, and in my book it is nearly perfect. It is almost like the whole town is a tourist resort - with no tourists. I can't figure out why, and after talking to people, they can't either.
Walking down the hill after you enter, there is a pulperia (little store,) a park, a simple hotel, and a parking lot. To the left is a long line of beautiful restaurants, and beyond them is the beach. The restaurants have thatch roofs, and many have a balcony and hammocks right on the beach!
A few of them are a little pricy, but it is to be expected: their food is SO good!! I had dinner with a Canadian family I had met and we shared rice, fish, lobster, salads, and fried plantains. There were huge portions and everything was cooked to perfection. The staff at the restaurants seem sweet and very accommodating and speak some (if little) English. And despite being in the middle of nowhere and having no wifi, most places take credit cards as well as cash.
On the other side of town there are some little comedors and bars that play loud music at night, but not to the point of overbearing or causing sleep loss. They are probably quite a bit cheaper but I didn't get a chance to check them out.
The town itself is almost completely paved which is a downside for me, but it doesn't matter if you're going to be spending your time on the beach. Exiting the restaurants onto the beach, I walked for hours in both directions and came across nothing but absolutely gorgeous beaches. Very occasionally I would pass some kids playing or looking for crabs, or someone riding a horse or bike, but for the most part I was alone with the ocean.
To the right is only empty, sandy beach just a short distance from trees, some typical shack-like houses, and an occasional cow or horse pasture.
To the left, it is completely different, and my favorite part about la Boquita. As you walk, there are huge cliffs with staircases winding down to the beach from fancy beachside houses, most likely owned by foreigners or rich nicos. When the tide comes in it looks like a normal beach, but as it goes out you can see more rocks that the waves crash over and into, leaving little pools with little fish and absolutely beautiful shells. As the waves crash the rocks, the water shoots through cracks and makes hundreds of tiny waterfalls. i have never seen anything quite like it, and for quite awhile I just stood there watching.
Further down the beach, the sand disappears for a short while and you are left walking on billions of pieces of tiny, colorful shells.
Even though I didn't see any, I have heard that a few kilometers further is an area well known as a place for turtles to come to shore to nest.
Another downside for me is the general male population in the town. I haven't had any problems at all elsewhere in Nicaragua, but because it is so unusual for a blonde gringa to show up in this town, there is definitely a ton of attention. Nothing dangerous (though I wouldn't go out alone at night) but endless stares and "psst" to get your attention. The Nicos here are very shy, but if you talk to them first they definitely like to talk.
Besides that, it is so relaxed and wonderful here; in the morning the couple made me a papaya shake and we sat talking, (they don't know English, which was perfect to help me learn Spanish!) enjoying the incredible weather.
So, in summary: go to la Boquita. Even if just a day or two, it is definitely a wonderful place with everything you need for a relaxing vacation. :)
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