Friday, March 13, 2015

Lakes and Markets and Little Towns With Strange Names...

"Its only 10 kilometeres from the lake to the next little village of Chugchilan." 

"Yeah, that's not bad at all. Lets do it."


Best idea ever. After Valentin and I arrived in the little town of Quilitoa, we descended to the edge of the beautiful lake, the huge center of a volcano.

We spent the night with a local family in their hostel. They served us delicious local food, and I nearly froze to death at such an altitude. I wore three layers of clothes and five alpaca fleece blankets - and I was still freezing. 

I was happy when the sun came up, leading us on a journey to the next village.

We walked for just over two hours - first, along the beautiful, green crater lake and then, down mountains and canyons, and climbing back up. 

At 4,000 meters, it is 100x harder to walk 10 kilometers, yet it was well worth it.

We walked along little sandy trails scattered with tiny flowers of every color -  purple and yellow and red and blue. 

Looking across the Andes mountains, I couldn't breathe (literally and hypothetically;)) the air was so thin, my head started to hurt. But it was worth it - seeing the farms of sheep and cows and traditonal people, and the endless valleys and pointed peaks in the distance.

After about seven kilometers, we made it to a tiny, silent town. Every so often we would see people wearing skirts, shawls, and top hats. Nearly every one smiled and said hello as if we were friends. Every smile made me fall in love a little more.


We continued for awhile more, out of the town, down the steepest trails, and up again. I was glad when we arrived in the simple pueblo of Chugchilan.

Once there, we found a hostel. $15 a night with two meals...and an adorable child. :)

We ate a typical meal of soup, rice, salad, and meat, and then I rented a horse and guide for $15 for four hours. It was absolutely incredible!!

My horse was probably one of the best one I have ridden outside of the states - he actually liked to move a little bit.

For the first hour, I got to experience some classic Ecuador - while the guide led, I rode behind a group of horses and donkeys, chasing them to different farms. Occasionally they would try to run off in a random direction, and my guide would jump off his horse and run to try to catch them. He was so thankful that I knew how to ride and handle the horses while he caught the strays.

When all the horses were safety at their homes, we rode up, up the mountains. We could see scattered houses in the distance, and the clouds rolled in and out  among the mountains.

It was so breathtaking, like so many things in this country. Again I found myself pulling myself down to earth - this is real, and it was created for us to enjoy. I am so privileged to get to enjoy it.

We continued along the cliffs for hours. Soon, the clouds completely consumed us. We dismounted the horses and walked through the cloud forest jungle, and the guide explained various types of plants and their uses. Every one had a strong smell.

After the plant explanation - and walking through mud and misty rain, we again began to decend the mountain. The guide stopped every few minutes to talk to the local people in a language I could not understand, even though the guide tried to teach me a few words.

We continued for hours, along fields and places, all of which were well explained.

Soon, we arrived back at the village. The sun set, we spent time with travelers over  yet another traditional meal, and slept early for a 3 am morning.
3 a.m. We get up and head to the road where we wait until nearly 4:00. Then, a bus rumbles down the cobble stone streets. We climb on, and are taken for the bumpiest, most annoying music ride for three hours. 
But once there, we were rewarded with a  unique Ecuadorian experience - an entire town made into a huge market. 

They sold everything. 
From fruits and veggies... 

...to meat (heads and feet included,) and fresh fish...




...and homemade pastas...

...to shoes and doors and guinea pigs and cows and sheep and more chickens than I have ever seen in my life.







Everywhere we walked, every block in the entire town had something else to offer. Everywhere, the people wore traditional hats and dress. They carried loads on their backs - corn, chickens, and children.




I would keep posting photos forever, but I am afraid that I don't have enough space or time to show all the incredible things I captured. (And it's amazing - there are even more things that I didn't have a chance to take a photo of!)




After the market, my new friends and I headed back to Latacunga, where we picked up out luggage we had left, and I said goodbye, heading back to Quito for a few more days in the beautiful city.
The way back was so challenging - one bus, then a trole bus, then another one. It is surprisingly difficult navigating in a 40 km city! But, thank God for four beautiful people on the buses that spent endless time trying to help me figure it out. Even they weren't sure! They were all angels and I made it, and had some great Spanish conversations in the mean time - and only spent $2.75 to go three hours. Travel win.
Today, I spent $15 and bought tons and tons of random fruits. I decided that I had been in random countries long enough without trying all the fruit. All I can say, is WOW. They may look (really really) weird, but there are some absolutely incredible fruits down here. USA, you are missing out. :)


Sunday, March 8, 2015

Quito, Mi Nuevo Amor! (:

It has been six days and I am still here. Six. And I haven't blogged once. In other words, this is the greatest city I have ever visited and I have been way to busy to sit and blog.


Day one: My Austrian boys and I walked around the beautiful city.


(A pine tree that looks like a palm tree!)



I was absolutely amazed by all the people who smiled and said hello. Such beautiful people! :)


We visited an art museum...


...and got interviewed by some school kids for an English class.


Then we rode the cable cars up 4,800 meters to the mountain overlooking the city. 


It was so incredible - so silent, and strange, knowing there is so much noise an activity below. 


The sun shone on the mountains and the clouds came rolling in. So tranquilo.


Quito is like no city in the world - only around five kilometers wide, and over 40 kilometers wide. We couldn't see the end!


On the mountain there was some Christians having a little worship service. I joined them and they all hugged me and welcomed me to Quito.


Later, we ate at little local comedor with a wonderful $2 meal. This place quickly became my favorite!


(My cook!)


Then, we chilled in the park with hundreds of relaxed Ecuadorians. Several came and talked to us. The park has become one of my favorite hang out spots in Quito.

(A shoe shiner in the park. Tons of little boys walk around with black hands and bottles of shoe polish, looking for shoes to shine for $1.)

Day two: My super awesome travel buddies left me. :( But I met a girl from Spain and we climbed up another hill to the virgin statue where we could see the other side of Quito.



As always, the view was amazing.


On the top, there were food stands and vendors, and other very touristic things...



After descending the hundreds of steps, we again ate at the comedor. And it finally happened - there was a chicken foot in the chicken soup!


Thankfully, the woman exchanged it for beef.

Side note - her kids are absolutely adorable...

 
That night I met up with a guy from couchsurfing. He showed me a bit of the town and we talked about travel, and then, he gave me a ride on his motorcycle! One thing checked off my bucket list - ride a motorcycle in Ecuador. It was pretty exhilarating speeding between the crazy car drivers. 

Day three: Jorgina and I took a two hour bus ride to Mindo where we hiked through the woods and saw some really cool butterflies and other jungle things...


And this is how Ecuadorians cross rivers...


They sit in a little box on strings and pull a little rope to move! It was a little intimidating above the rushing river.


Day four: I randomly met a guy in the park because we were both listening to the street preachers and musicians.


We spent the afternoon walking around Quito. He introduced me to two very strange local things - a milky drink with something like rice in it, and a food kind of like an empanada filled with meat, but it was somewhere around 15 inches long. We couldn't eat it all...

And day five: Futbol!!! I FINALLY got to see a real football game, and it was incredible! 


The fans sang pretty much the whole time, and were so into the game. Unfortunately there were no goals, so I didn't get to experience that craziness, but it was epic anyway...


So, Quito in a very small nutshell. I don't want to leave...:)


Tuesday, March 3, 2015

Onward to Ecuador!


5:30 am - Wake up, eat a cucumber for breakfast. Pack. 


6:10 Call taxi

6:17 Arrive at bus station

6:45 Bus leaves for Pasto and Ipiales


8:36 I sleep for awhile, then we stop at someone's house to use the bathroom. (Not planned. And didnt realize it was their house - they had a little road stand selling food! So kind of them to let us invade their house...)


Stefan and I move to the front seat. The bus driver tells me I'm very pretty.

 10:44 We drive through the most beautiful mountainous land. Deepest valleys, and huge green steep mountains on either side. The tops touch the clouds, and we drive up through them then back down.


11:17 The ride goes fast, we make a few stops, listen to energetic salsa music,  And our driver cruses along really fast - Going 80 in a 40 and 100 in a 60 on the craziest curviest roads, passing semis in no passing zones - defying death. I hold my breath more than once as we are completely relying on luck. A few times we were halfway past a semi when a car rounded the corner and we slammed on our breaks to get back over...I was thankful when the road straightened out, but it was short lived.


12:02 Bus arrives in Pasto, an hour ahead of schedule. Pay .50 for a bathroom...as in every bus station.


12:15 Bus leaves for Ipiales
Sit next to a nice Colombian and in front of five of his Chica friends, they laugh and joke because he is sitting by a gringa. Johanny and a guy from Morocco keep me entertained with good conversation and the ride goes fast.

12:26 Shortly after leaving we are stopped by military men who make all the men get off the bus. A short search and passport check and we continue on our way.

2:00 Arrive in Ipaieles. Jump in a collectiveo taxi with a few Colombians, a few Ecuadorians, and a few backpackers. I quickly make a ham and cheese tortilla and share some Oreos with the boys. No idea how long the border will take. Border crossings alway make me nervous.

2:15 Arrive at the boarder. The taxi drops us off on the Ecuador side. So we walk back to Colombia, get an exit stamp, then walk again across the yellow bridge to Ecuador. 


It is the easiest border crossing of my life - a simple stamp to exit, one tiny migration form, three questions from the officer, and an entrance stamp. No bag checks, no delays, and only one fast moving line. So much relief.

3:00 Jump in a taxi that takes us to the bus terminal. The cost is $3.50 for the three of us. Ecuador uses American dollars.


3:20 We pay .15 for bathrooms in Tulcan bus station.

 3:30 Board the bus to Quito. It is a huge coach bus, with huge comfy seats and windows that open. The Austrian boys share some avocado and bread with me. Yum.

4:28 The buildings and towns are similar but many of the people are very indigenous. They all seem to have very angled noses and soft faces.

4:36 We cross what looks like farmland with trees along the fence line. The hills look like they are covered in soft, green, down blankets. 


People keep coming on the bus trying to sell things. The ride is going to take forever - we keep stopping. It was supposed to be an express bus. The guy on the other bus warned us to make sure to ask for express not direct. I think we were just happy to find a bus to Quito and jumped on the first one. Oops.

4:40 It is strange how these people are so different from Colombians but so similar to each other. I like it.

5:44 The hills have remained the same, but the grass has disappeared and given way to dust and rocks and dark, dry, scattered shrubs. The sun is setting an shining through the clouds on the hills. It is breathtaking...


5:52 We are listening to bachata. I like this bus ride.

6:07 Iberra. They have pine trees that look like palm trees, whaaat? Ill try to get a pic later. And the people...it's hard to tell the guys and girls apart. A few of them are wearing top hats and shalls. Native dress? Ill try to get a photo of that too.

6:17 Twelve hours since we left. It went so fast, doesn't seem like it at all.


6:28 We had a little break in Ibarra, but they didn't announce it. I'm glad I asked. I was getting to the limit of sitting at one time capacity of tolerance. They have Ecuadorian time, they didn't mind standing outside the bus a little longer to wait for me.

7:02 I love this country. It reminds me of Guatemala and I haven't even been out of the bus yet. They are now playing the happiest, most fun Latin music imaginable and I want to dance.

7:16 The bus has blue lights! Woo!


How am I so happy and excited after traveling nonstop for 13 hours!? I am so in love with this. 

7:34 Money comes and money goes, but the memories and lessons learned last forever. That is why every penny I spend on travel is worth it.

8:10 I see Quitoo I see Quito!!!! Let me out of this bus!!!! (It's so far away....just gotta decend this darn mountain....)

8:36 That jeep literally just came within 3 inches of sideswiping us, right below my window. Alright then...

8:37 Bilandoo, bilandoooo....

8:48 WE ARE HEERREE. Jump off the bus, bus boy throws our bags out and jumps back on the bus and drives away... And Christoph hasn't gotten off. Oops. Hahaha. He got the bus to stop before they left the bus stop.

8:54 In a taxi. 30 minutes to hostel. Sweeeettt Jesus I love life. :)

...our taxi costs $8. The whole five hour ride from the border cost $5. I always forget to barter after long travel days. Ugh. oh Jenna. Guess I'm still not an experienced traveler. :P

9:15 It's misty. Kinda pretty over the city lights.


9:48 Finally found a hostel after checking every one on the street - and we have the room to ourselves! Success! Shower, sleep. Life is good.:)